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Tokyo is an enigma. You punch a button on a machine for some of the most memorable meals of your life. You willingly squeeze into a broom closet of a bar in Golden Gai and end up having the time of your life. You can marvel at cutting-edge architecture, enter a trippy new dimension created by digital projections, say a prayer at an ancient shrine, join the crowd at crossing the world’s busiest junction, take respite in a city-centre forest, splurge on raw fish, eat dessert for supper, slow down for a tea ceremony, spend the night in a library… and still have not seen enough of Tokyo.